Racing Sparrow RS1000 3D Build Guide

1. Overview

2. Preparation

2.1. Tools Required

3. 3D Printing

3.1. Colour Batches / Filament Choice

3.2. Print the Parts

4. Hull Build

4.1. Hull Preparation

4.2. Hull Assembly

4.3. Hull Cabin

4.4. Cut Hatch Supports

4.5. Sheet Exit Tube

5. Electrics

5.1. Servo Tray & Binding Receiver

5.2. Battery Box

5.3. Sail Arm Installation

5.4. Rudder Horn Cut & Install

5.5. Servo Tray Installation

6. Rudder & Mainsheet Installation

6.1. Main Sheet Routing

6.2. Rudder Internal Carbon

6.3. Rudder Push Rod

6.4. Centering & Trim

7. Hatch Plate

7.1. Hatch Plate Fixing

7.2. Seal Anchor Point

8. Keel Build

8.1. Keel Blanks Assembly

8.2. Join Bulb to Keel

8.3. Carbon Reinforcement

8.4. Bulb Filling

8.5. Final Keel Steps

9. Masts & Booms

9.1. Cut Mast & Boom Sections

9.2. Gooseneck Joiner & Boom

9.3. Attachment Points

10. Sail Making

10.1. Workspace Setup

10.2. Sail Shape Cuts

10.3. Sail Corners & Battens

10.4. Leading Edge Tape

10.5. Lacing Sails to Masts

10.6. Boom Loops

10.7. Sheet Adjusters

11. Main Sheet & Radio Setup

11.1. Main and Jib Sheeting

11.2. Boom Angle & Trim

11.3. Radio Fine Tuning

12. Ready to Sail

The Racing Sparrow 3D boats are designed to be printed from PLA+. One roll of filament should be enough to print the hull parts, keel, bulb, rudder, and rig parts. The 3d model has been designed so that no part is too large making this easily printable on most home 3d printers. Minimum Printer Bed Size Required: 200×200×200mm (XYZ).

Simply load the STL files into the slicer software and start printing. All parts are pre-oriented correctly so you should not need to rotate.

For 3D printing advice and tips read our in-depth blog post.

The settings the author used on a Creality K1 Max Printer were:
PLA+ eSun
Nozzle 0.4,
Wall count of 2: top 4, bottom 4 layers
Use mouse ear for problematic lifting edges
210°C Nozzle
60°C Bed
34°C Enclosure
Either 18% infill or 100% depending on the part
300mm/s speed

Carbon Fibre

Before gluing any carbon it’s best to sand off the glossy outer coating of the spar. These coatings are just thin layers added to the carbon by manufacturers. When gluing this will add much better bond of carbon and PLA+. It’s easiest to sand these with a dremel or it can be done by hand with sand paper. Wear gloves to avoid itchy hands from the cut carbon particles. Carbon glues well with both CA and epoxy glues.

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